It was my first trip to
Manipur and had happened after more than 3 months of planning, discussing,
arguing and doubting! Not much is known about the butterflies of the state, so
I was very excited and ready for a real adventure. Except for the weather,
everything worked out as planned thanks to a couple of local friends. After a day’s
deliberation, the plan was set. I was going to explore Yangoupokpi Lokchao Wildlife
sanctuary accompanied by a group of locals from People for Animals (PFA),
Manipur.
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| They always stand up for animals |
Charged with positivity and
excitement we started our journey next morning. The road turned out to be much
better than my expectations. Though I got lucky with the roads but the same
can’t be said about the other hurdles we faced. First of which was a sudden
road blockade by a local association demanding something. I really didn’t think
we will be able to make it across, but Biswajeet (founder of PFA, Manipur and
passionate animal activist and now, a good friend) believed otherwise! He asked
me to keep a serious look and accompany him, as he approached the leader of the
association to seek his permission to let us through. Because of the story he
told him making me a scientist who is looking for a cure of a deadly disease
about to break into their area, they let us pass! But none of our stories
worked with the next or should I say same but multiple hurdles! Since it was a
border road closer to the international boundary, we need to pass through
different Assam Rifles’ check gates. They were very skeptic and vigilant, more
than their job demands them to be. They frisked us several times at different
check gates while going and on our way back. I still remember the letters
written in bold at 24 HQ, ‘SMILE YOU ARE AT CHOUBEES’ but as Biswajeet says they
make people CRY at CHOUBEES! But I understand they were doing their duty.
.jpg) |
| Appeared after a century |
We reached ‘Kwatha’ a small
village, which was going to be our base camp for the trip, at noon. Kwatha is at
the fringe of Yangoupokpi Lokchao WLS and the streams of that area reportedly
has good butterfly population. Went out in the evening to explore a nearby
stream inside the sanctuary, butterfly activity was on the lower side. While
coming back a different looking skipper kept me busy for quite some time, I managed
to get a photograph in the end. Which later proved to be the find of the trip!
A rare Slate Awlet, which Dr Krushnamegh Kunte claims to be the first image of
the species from India! (read more on this -
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| Local but special |
Next day we started early to
do a proper trekking inside the sanctuary. We walked downhill to reach the
steam and trekked downstream. I saw many and photographed more than a dozen
butterflies including a few special ones! The forest was dense and green and
the water of the stream was healthy too. Noticed abundance of damselflies
around me and photographed some. I saw some forest birds, a couple of raptors
and a Steppe Eagle, which hovered above our heads. One thing worried me though,
while our trek I didn’t find any signs of any large or small carnivore, no
scat, hair, pug-marks, nothing!
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| They were all over the place |
N Deben Meitei, my local
guide from Kwatha asked me to come in between Aug-Oct for butterflies, since it
wasn’t the right time! Guess he was right. Despite that I continued but the
terrain was tough. The climb was so steep that at times I was rubbing my nose
with it! With a feeling of fulfillment and exhaustion we returned to the
village.
During my stay I spent both
the nights talking to the villagers to know more about their lifestyles, history,
culture and also the butterflies. All of them gave a similar ‘astounding/sardonic’
expression when I told them that I was looking for Koorak (butterflies in local language)! I enjoyed listening to the
very aged village headman and one of his neighbors; they shared with us the
memories of the days when British used to come to their village to collect
butterfly specimens! They seemed worried about the challenges of life and lack
of sources of livelihood at the village. Most of the households hunt, mainly
for meat for the family but it’s getting commercialized these days. But there
were some villagers who shared their concern regarding considerable decline in
the number of wild animals in the sanctuary and expressed their unwillingness
to hunt! Thanks to Biswajeet and his teammates from PFA, I could communicate
with the locals and exchange my ideas and experiences on how to improve their
livelihood without disturbing the forests much! Among others Deben, my guide
was very eager to try out the ideas we discussed. Am sure he will put them to
action under guidance of PFA.
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| Camera shy |
I enjoyed my time at Kwatha,
the forests, people, their culture and hospitality! I relished the local
cuisine and most fermented ingredients like fish; rice etc but I just couldn’t
stand the dreadful smell of fermented bamboo shoots!
We left Kwatha in the evening
for Imphal, where I was supposed to attend a national workshop on ‘Sangai’
conservation next day.
Loud honks of vehicles
passing by brought me back to reality. I realized we have reached Kohima, one
of the major towns of Nagaland. Though my trip was over but I knew I would
return soon. I shall always be indebted to Biswajeet and his team who in just
the first meeting, accepted me like one of their own who has returned home
after long. I remembered the question Biswajit once asked me ‘Are you just a tourist
visiting Manipur?!?!?’ and said to myself No, am not, I need to be more than
that and do my part to protect the forests and wildlife of Manipur!
For more photographs of the trip, check the links below -
For more photographs of the trip, check the links below -
