A Rainforest – Between tea gardens and a River!

Jeypore happened by luck

Our initial plan was to go to Namdapha National Park in Arunachal Pradesh but it didn't work out. The news of road blockade due to landslide came at the very last moment to flatten our plan! That put me & Dr in a great dilemma, because we were all set to go and didn’t want to let pass the chance but the time was too short to plan something new! Btw Dr is actually Yaranajit Deka, my friend and colleague from Samrakshn Trust. He is neither a physician nor a PhD but still he is Dr for me. Will write in detail about why Dr is called Dr some other time!

Dr suggested Dehing-Patkai Wildlife Sanctuary / Jeypore Rainforest in less than an hour and asked me to get the details if I agree. I was skeptic initially since even Google map failed to locate it. Thankfully Assam Environment & Forest site helped. It is one of the newly declared Wildlife sanctuaries (in the year 2004) of the region, thanks to the efforts of Dr. Kashmira Kakati. The sanctuary covers an area of 111 sq km approx. on either sides of the river Buridehing and is a part of Jeypore – Dehing Landscape of the Assam Valley lowland evergreen rainforest.

Once I got the necessary info and passed them on to Dr, our new plan (or no plan at all) was set to visit Jaypore Rainforest. I was extra excited because I had a camera with me!

Getting there

Set off to Tinsukia, the nearest big town to my destination. Was supposed to meet Dr next day at Tinsukia. Trusted Indian Railways again but this time it surprised me (pleasantly), reached Tinsukia well on time. I spent the night at my cousin sister’s place. They were very happy to receive me; I also enjoyed being there for the first time. After a night of rest and an awesome Sunday breakfast, left Tinsukia with Dr for Jeypore. We took a bus to Naharkatia, since there was no direct transport to Jeypore. The bus ride took longer than I expected and the monsoon rain made the road appropriate for paddy cultivation! The day was cloudy with occasional rain showers, made the journey somewhat tolerable. We had lunch at one of the relatives of Dr at Naharkatia. Dr is from Tinsukia so we always had a lot of helping hands around us, another reason to come for such an unplanned trip. We were finally off to Jeypore after a heavy Sunday fest of Chicken and veg-fries. It wasn’t far and roads were decent than earlier.

Since the trip was unplanned we had no permission to stay at forest IB, we both were counting on our skills to pull that off on spot. We weren’t overestimating ourselves! We got the permission after a dozen phone calls and after giving most of the forest officials of the range a description of our motive, background and references of the people whom they couldn’t say no to.

The Jeypore Forest Inspection Bungalow (IB)

Jeypore Forest IB

The look of the IB from outside impressed me, an old design (built in 1890’s) in a new form. An open space surrounded by tall trees and the Buridehing River on one side. To my sheer astonishment the interior and the room which was provided to us was way over my exceptions and had completely blown me over. Though our main motive was to visit the forest but the ambiance of the IB was worth all the travel-strain. Let the pictures do the talking –

Bed room

Dining area

Sitting area at Balcony

View from the IB balcony

Had a quick relaxing bath and went out with my camera to inspect the surroundings and the river. Took some photos of the scenery and came back to seat at the balcony to write about the trip. The river wind in the evening made it extra chill and I had to use Dr’s shawl to keep myself warm. What more I could have asked for?!?!?

   

Have noticed a lot of birds, mostly Parakeets but Dr dissented with his 'you don’t know anything' look and declared that ‘the diversity is very low!’

While I was writing, an Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis)joined me, I tried in vain to photograph it! It was there seating the entire time quietly only flying away when I had the camera instead of pen in my hand. 

I spent the evening enjoying the cold (very cold) breeze blowing from the river and talking to Dr about general nonsense. The IB cook made Dal–Chawal for dinner, which was good enough. We slept early because the plan was to leave at 6am next morning.

Day 1 – Walk into the Rainforest

The trees are  really tall!

We both were up on time. Got ready after an early morning Maggie and bread breakfast but it stated to rain. Thankfully it stopped after 10mins and never rained again during our trekking. We left immediately. It was 3 kms walk alongside the river till we reached the entrance gate to Jaypore Rainforest.

Lakhindar, our guide for the trip was waiting there for us. Lakhi (we immediately shortened his name, which sounds feminine but he didn’t object!)had accompanied almost every researcher/scientist in their projects so he knows the forest and wildlife (birds specially) like the back of his hand.

The forest was greener than I expected and the canopy was high and thick. The trees were tall (about 50 ft on average). A sub-concrete road goes through the forest connecting the tea garden on the other side. As soon as we entered we hear bird calls from all angles, of course the loudest being the Cicadas (Tibicen pruinosa)! On one of the road turns we bumped into a female kalij Pheasent (Lophura leucomelanos), I managed to get a photograph but not good enough to be posted here. 

Since there was no sunlight butterfly activity was less but still we saw quite a lot of them.

We must have seen at least 50 species of birds. Some specials were – Sultan tit (Melanochlora sultanea), Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush (Garrulax monileger), Green Billed Malkoha (Phaenicophaeus tristis), White throated Bulbul (Alophoixus flaveolus), Grey headed Woodpecker (Picus canus). Lakhi tried very hard but failed to show us Red headed trogon (Harpactes erythrocephalus), we had to settle for the calls only. We trekked almost 5 kms, stopped occasionally for small biscuit & water breaks. 

Since it was getting dark (because of the dark monsoon clouds) we decided to head back. We saw Rhesus Macaque (Macaca mulatta), Hoary bellied Squirrel (Callosciurus pygerythus)and Malayan Giant Squirrel (Ratufa bicolor) on our way back. I saw a common kingfisher (Alcedo atthis) doing its business on one of the forest streams. A large (about 25-30) flock of oriental Pied Hornbills (Anthracoceros albirostris) flew over our heads to return to their nets. A Spotted forktail(Enicurus maculates)was there on the road ahead of me, chased it in vain almost 200 meters to photograph it but it was always out of my lens’s range. I tried to trick it in one of the turns but it outsmarted me and flew off! I succeed in taking an id shoot (enough to identify) though.

Dragonfly with clubbed antenna!

Since I didn’t see any frog or even tadpoles, decided to go upstream in one of the forest streams with Lakhi, Dr followed the usual route since he didn’t want to get his shoes wet. Saw a lot of damselflies. Photographed a typical Dragonfly with clubbed antenna (like butterflies) which was unfamiliar to both me and Lakhi! But frogs were absent, could be because we were at the wrong spot.

Came out of the forest and met Dr, he apparently had seen a group of Langures and a barking deer came to feed on the fruits dropped by them. We thanked Lakhi and left for the IB. We reached in no time thanks to a passerby who gave us lift in his car.

Had a relaxing afternoon, after a bath and simple lunch, I took a nap enjoying the river wind. The evening was lazy; since it was raining so couldn’t go out. Spent time writing and talking to Dr. Chicken was there in dinner again! Had enjoyed sleeping early and for 8 hours.

Day 2 - Half a day of Photography!

Woke up on usual time but it was raining again. We left late at 7. Since the cook didn't show up so we had to leave hungry, taking some food for the day. Thankfully found a tea stall and had puri - sabji there. It tasted ok to me but Dr grumbled about the sabji being too spicy!

We continued after filling our stomach. Unfortunately Lakhi couldn't come with us; he had to attend an elephant rescue work with the forest Dept. We decide to follow the main road which goes to Arunachal Pradesh and passes through Jeypore Reserve Forest. The road had rainforest in one side and paddy field on the other. I saw some Asian Openbill storks (Anastomus oscitans) in the paddy field and ran to take some photographs. While I was approaching the birds cautiously, hoping they would allow me to take a single shoot at least, I heard familiar bird calls. A careful inspection of the field revealed a pair of Lapwings! They are shy birds and didn't allow me to go near them. I somehow managed to get an id shoot; they were Red-wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus). While I was concentration on the lapwings to my dismay some of the Storks flew off. With the fear of losing them all I immediately started clicking but my 18-55 mm lens didn't support me much and as soon as I was done taking one photo the strokes winged.

Since there was not much wildlife activity and disturbance of heavy vehicles going to AP, We went inside the rainforest again. A group of Langures were there, they jumped away to escape our sight! Birds were there in plenty and we saw most of bird species that we had seen the other day and some new ones also. While Dr was busy birding, I spent the whole time trying my Photography skills with all butterflies within my lens's range! I got some Good photos of Butterflies. Saw a couple of butterflies feeding on a bird dropping, I set there to take photos from the best possible angles. While i was taking photos the no of butterflies begun to increase as if they wanted me to photograph them or may be the food was too tempting! At one point there were as many as 8 butterflies feeding on the tiny spot, literally tumbling onto each other.

Another one joined

At the beginning

Kept increasing

Still going up

We spent a lot of time enjoying the forests, birds and butterflies. Since we were leaving that evening and it begun to rain we started to walk back to the IB. Left the IB after having lunch and thanking the cook.

If someone wants to experience rainforests and does bird/butterfly watching and doesn't mind getting wet and dirty and leach bites then this the place they should visit. Details can be found in Assam environment & Forest website.

My return journey was as unplanned as the trip. Though I could have tried to make it smother but I preferred it the other way because when things are unplanned and they go out of control we get an opportunity to grow and learn! Got back late at least by 3 hours at 10 pm, all credit goes to Dr for his great time calculation (or miscalculation). It was a great trip and I will be glad to trust Dr on a similar trip again! 

Some extra Photographs of the trip -

Forest stream meets the river

Some moth?!?!

Moth again?!?!?

White Dragon-tail