An escape to revive

Suddenly felt the drop in temperature, as dark clouds covered the sky. First drizzle and then proper rain, made it cooler for me to deal with, in just a shirt! Noticed our vehicle was passing through the hills of Senapati district. To beat the chill and divert my mind away from the ongoing racket inside the vehicle, I let myself get lost into the memories of the trip I was returning from.

It was my first trip to Manipur and had happened after more than 3 months of planning, discussing, arguing and doubting! Not much is known about the butterflies of the state, so I was very excited and ready for a real adventure. Except for the weather, everything worked out as planned thanks to a couple of local friends. After a day’s deliberation, the plan was set. I was going to explore Yangoupokpi Lokchao Wildlife sanctuary accompanied by a group of locals from People for Animals (PFA), Manipur.

They always stand up for animals

Charged with positivity and excitement we started our journey next morning. The road turned out to be much better than my expectations. Though I got lucky with the roads but the same can’t be said about the other hurdles we faced. First of which was a sudden road blockade by a local association demanding something. I really didn’t think we will be able to make it across, but Biswajeet (founder of PFA, Manipur and passionate animal activist and now, a good friend) believed otherwise! He asked me to keep a serious look and accompany him, as he approached the leader of the association to seek his permission to let us through. Because of the story he told him making me a scientist who is looking for a cure of a deadly disease about to break into their area, they let us pass! But none of our stories worked with the next or should I say same but multiple hurdles! Since it was a border road closer to the international boundary, we need to pass through different Assam Rifles’ check gates. They were very skeptic and vigilant, more than their job demands them to be. They frisked us several times at different check gates while going and on our way back. I still remember the letters written in bold at 24 HQ, ‘SMILE YOU ARE AT CHOUBEES’ but as Biswajeet says they make people CRY at CHOUBEES! But I understand they were doing their duty.

Appeared after a century

We reached ‘Kwatha’ a small village, which was going to be our base camp for the trip, at noon. Kwatha is at the fringe of Yangoupokpi Lokchao WLS and the streams of that area reportedly has good butterfly population. Went out in the evening to explore a nearby stream inside the sanctuary, butterfly activity was on the lower side. While coming back a different looking skipper kept me busy for quite some time, I managed to get a photograph in the end. Which later proved to be the find of the trip! A rare Slate Awlet, which Dr Krushnamegh Kunte claims to be the first image of the species from India! (read more on this -

http://www.thesangaiexpress.com/page/items/51111/rare-butterfly-found-in-state

http://www.assamtribune.com/scripts/detailsnew.asp?id=may0115/oth054)

Local but special

Next day we started early to do a proper trekking inside the sanctuary. We walked downhill to reach the steam and trekked downstream. I saw many and photographed more than a dozen butterflies including a few special ones! The forest was dense and green and the water of the stream was healthy too. Noticed abundance of damselflies around me and photographed some. I saw some forest birds, a couple of raptors and a Steppe Eagle, which hovered above our heads. One thing worried me though, while our trek I didn’t find any signs of any large or small carnivore, no scat, hair, pug-marks, nothing!

They were all over the place

N Deben Meitei, my local guide from Kwatha asked me to come in between Aug-Oct for butterflies, since it wasn’t the right time! Guess he was right. Despite that I continued but the terrain was tough. The climb was so steep that at times I was rubbing my nose with it! With a feeling of fulfillment and exhaustion we returned to the village.

During my stay I spent both the nights talking to the villagers to know more about their lifestyles, history, culture and also the butterflies. All of them gave a similar ‘astounding/sardonic’ expression when I told them that I was looking for Koorak (butterflies in local language)! I enjoyed listening to the very aged village headman and one of his neighbors; they shared with us the memories of the days when British used to come to their village to collect butterfly specimens! They seemed worried about the challenges of life and lack of sources of livelihood at the village. Most of the households hunt, mainly for meat for the family but it’s getting commercialized these days. But there were some villagers who shared their concern regarding considerable decline in the number of wild animals in the sanctuary and expressed their unwillingness to hunt! Thanks to Biswajeet and his teammates from PFA, I could communicate with the locals and exchange my ideas and experiences on how to improve their livelihood without disturbing the forests much! Among others Deben, my guide was very eager to try out the ideas we discussed. Am sure he will put them to action under guidance of PFA.

Camera shy

I enjoyed my time at Kwatha, the forests, people, their culture and hospitality! I relished the local cuisine and most fermented ingredients like fish; rice etc but I just couldn’t stand the dreadful smell of fermented bamboo shoots!

We left Kwatha in the evening for Imphal, where I was supposed to attend a national workshop on ‘Sangai’ conservation next day.

Loud honks of vehicles passing by brought me back to reality. I realized we have reached Kohima, one of the major towns of Nagaland. Though my trip was over but I knew I would return soon. I shall always be indebted to Biswajeet and his team who in just the first meeting, accepted me like one of their own who has returned home after long. I remembered the question Biswajit once asked me ‘Are you just a tourist visiting Manipur?!?!?’ and said to myself No, am not, I need to be more than that and do my part to protect the forests and wildlife of Manipur!
For more photographs of the trip, check the links below - 

http://img.gg/h99UwtV

http://img.gg/rBi6f9Z

http://www.ifoundbutterflies.org/photographer/417/Basabjit+Chakraborty